Trains with no air-conditioning

Japan is a humid country. Most part of country belongs to subtropical climate, and the highest temperature is usually observed in July or August. It is getting hotter than ever due to the global warming, and it is now not uncommon to see the mercury hitting more than 35 degrees Celsius. Hokkaido, the northern island known for a significant amount of snow fall, is no exception.

Therefore, air-conditioning has been vital for the most people here in Japan. Railway companies have invested in air-conditioned trains from the 1960s, and most "non-air-conditioned" trains in urban areas were withdrawn by the mid-1990s. However, there are a few exceptions as listed below.

(*Note that the list does not include preserved trains, old trams, tourist attractions and some funiculars.)

JR Hokkaido

Old diesel trains in Hokkaido are mostly without the air-conditioning. Since maximum temperatures in summer were used to be lower than 30 degrees Celsius, Japanese National Railways concluded that no such costly equipment was necessary. However, the mercury often hits 35 degrees or even higher these days, so AC is now essential even in this northern island. Nevertheless, there are a few diesel trains without one, namely KiHa 40 series, KiHa 54 series and some KiHa 150 series. They are used for regional services in Tomakomai, Asahikawa and Kushiro areas. Those who definitely wish to avoid such trains should purchase an extra ticket and get on a limited express service.

Yamaman

Yamaman is a real estate developer that has developed a town of Yukarigaoka in Sakura city (Chiba Prefecture) since 1971. Though located far from Tokyo, the town has developed successfully and continues to attract younger generations.

The company owns a small automated guideway transit system called Yukarigaoka Line in the town. Yamaman 1000 series, the only rolling stock of the line, has no air-conditioning. The company provides disposable wet towels and paper fans on the train, but they are clearly not enough during the blistering heat and high humidity. While Yukarigaoka is not a place for sightseeing, those visiting the town should acknowledge this fact or simply avoid trains and use bus instead.

Hakone Tozan Railway

Hakone Tozan Railway has always been busy, as the railway itself is now a tourist attraction. There are four types of trains, and one of them has no air-conditioning. MoHa 1 and 2, the oldest rolling stock, was introduced in 1950, and three carriages (which are effectively treated as one three-car unit) are still operational today. Hakone had had lower temperatures than Odawara or Yokohama until around ten years ago, but heatwaves have finally reached this mountain. Probably that is why the company has designated the 75-year-old train as a spare unit, and thus it usually stays at a depot instead of carrying passengers in summer.

Sangi Railway

Nagoya area has always been very hot, but surprisingly, there are a few trains without AC. Sangi Railway Hokusei Line is a rural railway in Mie Prefecture with very narrow gauge. Trains are 35-71 years old, and due to their size, engineers gave up installing air-conditioners on some of them.

Just two out of seven units are fully air-conditioned, and three units are partially air-conditioned (the first carriage has no cooler). The other two units are completely without AC. The company therefore posts timetables of "non-air-conditioned" services on X, and advises vulnerable people to avoid them. Given that Kuwana city, where the line starts, have recorded the highest temperature of 40.4 degrees on the first day of August, the timetables are essential for local residents.

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As the recent heatwave is expected to continue for weeks, it is essential to have water and avoid sunshine as much as possible. Those who plan to travel the abovementioned areas should also check their itinerary and consider avoiding such trains.

Farewell, Enkobashicho Tram Stop

On Saturday 2nd August, the Main Line of Hiroshima Electric Railway between Hiroshima Station and Matobacho tram stop will be permanently closed. Instead, a new, shorter route connecting them will open on the following day. As a result, Enkobashicho, the only intermediate tram stop on the current route, will be permanently closed as well.

Enkobashicho is the tram stop adjacent to Hiroshima Station, the de facto central station of the city. It opened in 1912, and it was named after a nearby bridge called Enkobashi. The tram stop has very narrow platforms with no step-free access. There were no platforms until 1974, and they do not look safe even with them today.

Who uses Enkobashicho tram stop, which is less than 200 yards from the central station? Some passengers heading towards the central station alight at Enkobashicho, because services often come to a standstill due to traffic congestion. In that case, it is better to walk two minutes than to wait on a tram for 3-5 minutes. According to the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism, nearly 2,000 people on average used the tram stop daily.

There is not much to see around the tram stop, but three rusted hand pumps on the pavement are striking. According to a small handmade sign, these pumps date back to the early 1940s or even before that, and they supplied water to those burnt by the atomic bomb on the Day 80 years ago. Whilst they are not officially designated as "atomic bomb heritage" by the authorities, Nippon Television concluded that they are genuine historical remains.

The rerouting of the Main Line constitutes the essential part of a redevelopment plan initiated by the city. As the new route is less likely to be affected by traffic jams, and the new Hiroshima Station platforms are larger than the current ones, passengers will be able to access the central station faster. Enkobashicho tram stop will have fulfilled its purpose, and will be demolished later this year for road widening.

Related: The Tram, another stark reminder from the past

The unprecedented disruption on Yamagata Shinkansen

Yamagata Shinkansen has been operating with significantly reduced services for nearly a month due to train faults. The line has been severely disrupted in summer, and it may have a huge negative impact on local economy.

On 17th June, Tohoku Shinkansen was closed for 5.5 hours due to broken down trains. Initially, it was reported that the newest unit of E8 series came to a halt because of fatal technical failure whilst testing, but according to Nikkei, three more units suffered from similar failure on the same day. According to JR East, a power system on each units that converts power for other devices broke down so that a cooling system stopped, and thus the trains could not reactivate. It was later found that the power system was severely damaged or even partly melted. The cause of the troubles remains unknown.

The E8 series entered into service in March 2024, and eleven seven-carriage units have been introduced as of today. Five of them have been taken out of service and are under investigation. JR East timidly reinstated other units to passenger services, but the company has decided to use the units always with 10-car E5 series trains. They are used only for a handful Yamabiko services between Tokyo and Sendai. In other words, the company has not used the E8 series units independently since then.

As a result, there has been a severe shortage of trains. JR East has been using E3 series trains alongside the E8 series, but the E8 series trains have been unable to engage in passenger services between Fukushima and Shinjo, so all Yamagata Shinkansen services are provided by old E3 series trains. However, the number of the E3 series is not sufficient, as the old trains have been gradually replaced with the E8 series. Hence, Nikkei estimated that the daily capacity would decrease by up to 40%.

JR East had no choice but to cancel almost of all direct services between Tokyo and Yamagata or Shinjo. According to the temporary timetables, E3 series trains run between Fukushima and Shinjo, and all passengers to and from Tokyo or Omiya are required to change trains at Fukushima station. As trains have to wait for the transfer, there have been minor delays on some services.

JR East and manufacturers are struggling to figure out the cause. Hence, JR East announced on Wednesday that the service reduction will continue until at least the end of July. Amidst concerns over local economy, Asahi Shimbun reported that the Governor of Yamagata Prefecture urged JR East to carry out all the necessary investigations and resume the services as soon as possible. In response to her request, JR East decided to provide three direct trains to and from Tokyo from Saturday 19th July using the E3 series, but there will be even fewer services between Fukushima and Shinjo due to lack of available trains. At present, it is highly uncertain if all E8 series will be reinstated before Obon holidays in mid-August, one of the busiest seasons in Japan.

Mojiko, Another Important Cultural Property

Mojiko is a station where Kagoshima Main Line begins. It was once vital for the entire island of Kyushu, but trains running between Kyushu and the Main Island (Honshu) have completely been rerouted. Nevertheless, Mojiko still remains as a symbol of the area, and its historic building is highly popular among tourists.

Mojiko is one of two active stations that are designated by the government as an Important Cultural Property (the other one is Tokyo station). Opened in 1891 as Kyushu Railway's Moji station, it had been the most important railway terminal in Kyushu until 1942, when Kanmon Tunnel connecting Shimonoseki and Moji opened. At the same time, Moji station was renamed Mojiko.

The current building was built in 1914, seven years after the nationalisation of Kyushu Railway. There are many things to see, not only the architecture itself but also interior features such as the ticket hall, ticket office and waiting room. The main building is magnificent especially at night when it is illuminated. While most tourists visit the area during the daytime and leave by sunset, it is worth waiting until it gets dark.

According to the statistics, the annual entry and exit in 2023 was approximately 3.5 million, less than 4% of that of Hakata (the busiest station on JR Kyushu network). Mojiko station is mostly empty except during rush hours, so these platforms look disproportionately long. They remind us of the days when millions of passengers and tonnes of goods a year relied on trains and ferries to cross the Kanmon Straits.

Mojiko is a place where old western-style buildings are preserved. It is a small but lovely tourist spot, and it takes only 15 minutes from Kokura by train. Shimonoseki, another city known for such buildings and fugu (blowfish) dishes, is just five minutes away by boat.

Tokyo station, where two prime ministers were assassinated

Tokyo station is arguably the most famous railway hub in Japan, and is effectively the central station of the capital. The iconic red brick building on the west side, known as Marunouchi Side, was built in 1914. While largely destroyed during the Bombing of Tokyo in 1945, the building was reconstructed two years later, and it was restored to the original style in 2012. Today, it is one of just two active railway stations registered as the Important Cultural Property by the Government.

Tokyo station is generally seen as a symbol of the country's positive aspects, such as westernisation, modernisation and prosperity as well as resilience after the Second World War, but it also represents negative historical memories that are often overlooked. This is the place where two incumbent prime ministers were killed.

On 4th November 1921, Takashi Hara was stabbed to death by an 18-year-old pointsman of the Railway Ministry. There is a small plate on the wall, just next to a ticket machine at "Marunouchi South Entrance/Exit", with a tiny hexagon mark next to a small square pattern on the floor, showing the precise position of the incident.

Takashi Hara was the first commoner to become prime minister in Japanese history. He took office in 1918, and it was the first time in history that a member of the House of Representatives became the prime minister. This is why his premiership is sometimes called the dawn of democracy in Japan. It is also worth noting that he was the only Christian prime minister before the Second World War.

During his premiership, he engaged in improving higher education, including establishment or reorganisation of many private universities (e.g. Waseda, Keio and Doshisha) as well as new "higher schools" (different to high schools of today). However, inflation after the First World War remained stubbornly high, and the cost of living crisis led to criticisms of prioritising business leaders rather than citizens, which are said to have triggered the assassination.

The inscription reads:

On 4th November 1921 at 7:20 pm, Prime Minister Takashi Hara was walking towards a ticket gate at Marunouchi South Entrance to visit Kyoto, where a party conference of Seiyukai's Kyoto branch would be held. Then, a young man ran out and grazed a shoulder of Yoshikazu Takahashi (the first stationmaster) and suddenly stabbed Hara in his right chest with a six-inch dagger. Hara collapsed on the spot and received first aid treatment at the stationmaster's office, but he was already dead. The assailant stated that he committed the murder because he was dissatisfied with Hara and his cabinet's high-handed policies, but the true background of the incident remained unclear.

It was the very first assassination of a sitting prime minister in Japan. The assailant was sentenced to life imprisonment but pardoned in 1934. Since his imprisonment was disproportionately short, there have been rumours or even conspiracy theories about possible connection between him and other ultra right-wing activists, but it has not been verified. He died in 1980 at the age of 77.

Another prime minister was killed in less than ten years. On 14th November 1930, Osachi Hamaguchi was shot by a 21-year-old right-wing activist at the station, and died in the following year. There is another plate on the wall and a tile on the floor near a lift to platforms 9 and 10 at the central concourse, though the square symbol does not represent the actual position of the incident (he was actually shot at the platform above).

Osachi Hamaguchi became prime minister in 1929 and known for being dovish and an internationalist both diplomatically and economically. He also pursued austerity and reduction of armament that infuriated many Japanese. The public rage at him peaked when he ratified the Treaty for the Limitation and Reduction of Naval Armament (also known as the London Naval Treaty), which Hamaguchi believed helpful for both budget cut and maintaining good relationship with the United Kingdom and the United States. He was accused by opposition parties and the military of violating Article 11 of the constitution, which prescribed that "The Emperor has the supreme command of the Army and Navy", while he and ministers believed that approval of the Diet and the Privy Council would suffice.

The inscription reads:

On 14th November 1930 at 8:58 am, Prime Minister Osachi Hamaguchi was walking down the platform to the first-class coach of the Limited Express "Tsubame" that would depart at 9 am, en route to Okayama Prefecture to observe a special army manoeuvre. Then, a gunshot rang out, and Hamaguchi collapsed, clutching his abdomen. He received first aid by doctors, and underwent surgery at the Tokyo Imperial University Hospital. His condition initially seemed to improve, but died on 26th August in the following year. It is said that the assailant committed the attack as he opposed Hamaguchi's government, led by Constitutional Democratic Party, which resisted pressure from the military during the ratification of the London Treaty.

After the assassination of Hara, the authorities decided to temporarily close part of a station when a prime minister was about to board or alight from a train, but Hamaguchi asked the security personnel to lift the restriction as he did not want to inconvenience other citizens. It ended up with the tragedy.

This incident had a significant impact on the Japanese politics. This case and the assassination of Tsuyoshi Inukai, another sitting prime minister killed in 1932, were decisive for the premature democracy in the country, consequently replaced with militarism.

These memorials are very subtle and not noticeable, presumably because they are not something the Japanese people or JR East are proud of. Even so, these marks silently remind us of significant moments in history. As the world is deeply divided with disinformation and agitation, they also remind us that the true value of these monuments should never be underestimated.