The railway and the religion (1) – Kotoden in Kagawa Prefecture

There is often a connection between a railway and religion. For example, Keikyu, which is now known as an airport rail link between Haneda Airport and Tokyo, was initially built to transport prayers visiting Heiken-ji temple (Kawasaki Daishi). There are a few other railways opened for a similar purpose, and Kotoden might be one of the most interesting examples in Japan, as all of its lines have a strong connection with religion.

Kotoden, officially Takamatsu Kotohira Electric Railroad, is a small private railway company with three lines (Kotohira, Nagao and Shido Lines) in Kagawa Prefecture, western Japan. They are ordinary commuter railways today, but they were once heavily used by worshippers and pilgrims visiting temples and shrines, which most people overlook these days.

Kotohira Line

Kotohira Line is the longest and most used one amongst the three lines, connecting Takamatsu-Chikko (which is close to JR Takamatsu station and the port) and Kotoden-Kotohira. The line is 32.9 km (20.4 miles) long, and a journey on the entire line takes about an hour.

Kotohira is a town known for the largest shrine in the region called Kotohira Shrine (also known as Kompira shrine), which has been one of the most famous and authoritative patrons of maritime transport in the country for more than 400 years. Ferries and boats are not as common today as they used to be, but the shrine still attracts millions of sailors and tourists every year.

Kotohira Electric Railway opened in 1926, and extended to Kotohira in the following year to transport visitors to the shrine. It was one of four railways constructed for the shrine, showing how high the demand was back then. Even after Kotoden was established in 1943 amidst the war, Kotohira Line remained an important railway in the region. However, as the visitors gradually shifted to road transport, Kotoden has concentrated on local residents going to work, school or for shopping rather than tourists coming from other part of the country.

Even so, not a few visitors to the shrine still use the line. Kotohira station is also served by JR Dosan Line, but Kotoden outweighs JR when it comes to a journey between Takamatsu and Kotohira. To put it simply, Kotoden is more convenient and cheaper.

Nagao Line

Nagao Line is a 14.6 km (9 miles) long railway that branches off at Kawaramachi, opened in 1912 by Takamatsu Electric Tramway. The line is mostly in residential area, used by commuters and students during rush hours but quiet at off-peak times.

Nagao Line had been used by pilgrims visiting Nagao-ji temple, one of the 88 temples of the Shikoku Pilgrimage. It was so hard that not a few pilgrims lost their lives in the past, but it gradually became a casual trip as railways and roads were built. Nagao Line was part of it.

The number of pilgrims has declined over decades, but the number of foreign tourists visiting temples is gradually increasing, probably because The New York Times referred to it in 2015.

Shido Line

Shido Line is a 12.5 km (8 miles) long railway connecting Kawaramachi and Kotoden-Shido, opened in 1911 by Tosan Electric Tramway. According to Kotoden's official website, both Nagao and Shido Lines were initially served by small trains for tourists. Shido Line lies close to the sea, attracting both tourists and local residents going on an outing.

Kotoden-Shido is close to Shido-ji, another temple that is part of the Pilgrimage. In addition, two more temples, namely Yakuri-ji and Yashima-ji, are close to Yakuri and Kotoden-Yashima stations on the line. There is even a funicular near Yakuri station, which transports not only pilgrims to the temple but also those going for hiking. There was also another funicular at Yashima, though it was closed 20 years ago.

Yashima is known for an old battlefield. There was Battle of Yashima on 22 March 1185, in which the Minamoto and Taira clans fought against each other (Genpei War). This battle is also well known in Japanese literature (Tale of the Heike), which almost of all Japanese students at secondary school learn.

Not a few Japanese people focus on the battlefield, but Yashima-ji should not be forgotten. While the funicular has already been closed, there is a bus from JR Shido or Kotoden-Shido stations, making it easy to access to the temple.

Kotoden might just be a mundane rural railway with old-fashioned trains at first glance, but given its history and connection with religion, it might look a little more interesting. Note that these temples and the shrine are places of worship, so any boisterous or disturbing behaviour is not accepted.

Chuo Line, another route to Nagoya

Blue: Tokaido Shinkansen　Orange: Chuo Main Line

Nagoya is the fourth largest city in Japan with approximately 2.34 million people. It is 267 km (166 miles) west of Tokyo, but because of topographical reasons, railways and roads connecting the two cities exceed 320 km (200 miles). Most travellers between the two cities rely on Tokaido Shinkansen, the oldest high-speed rail in the world, as it takes just 1.5 hours and trains run every 4-10 minutes at the daytime.

It is often overlooked that there are two more railways that directly connect Tokyo and Nagoya. Tokaido Main Line, which largely parallels the Tokaido Shinkansen, still serves the cities. Whilst most passengers have already shifted to the Shinkansen, Tokaido Main Line is still important for freight trains. In addition, Chuo Main Line also plays role in these cities, though very few people use it to travel between Tokyo and Nagoya. This article focuses on Chuo Main Line, and whether it is worth to choose this route.

Like Tokaido Main Line, Chuo Main Line starts from Tokyo station. Chuo Line is well known in Tokyo for orange and overcrowded commuter trains. Intercity services, Limited Express Azusa and Kaiji, run along with the commuter trains. Azusa is faster and goes farther, as it connects Tokyo or Shinjuku and Matsumoto.

Most Azusa services are provided by E353 series, which might look a little bizarre but quite new and thus clean. Even amidst the labour shortage, an onboard trolley service with foods and drinks is available on most trains.

From ruins of Kofu Castle

After leaving Takao in the western end of Tokyo Metropolis, the train dives into mountains. Major stations on Chuo Main Line include Otsuki (where Fujikyu Railway, which is highly popular amongst foreign tourists visiting Mt Fuji), Kofu (the capital of Yamanashi Prefecture) and Kami-Suwa (which is close to Lake Suwa).

A little vineyard at Shiojiri station platform

There has been no regular direct service between Tokyo and Nagoya since the 1960s, so at least one transfer is required. In most cases, it is necessary to change trains at Shiojiri station in Nagano Prefecture, which is about 2.5 hours from Shinjuku by Azusa. It is one of a few "border stations" where operational border of JR East and JR Central exists. That is why, the line is sometimes divided into Chuo East Line (Tokyo - Shiojiri, JR East) and Chuo West Line (Shiojiri - Nagoya, JR Central).

Shinonoi Line, which goes on to Matsumoto and Nagano, branches off here. Since not just Azusa but also many regional services on Chuo East Line start from or terminate at Matsumoto, some people misunderstand that Matsumoto is part of Chuo Main Line.

There is another limited express train called Shinano, running between Nagano and Nagoya via Matsumoto and Shiojiri. 383 series is used for Shinano, and the rolling stock was first introduced nearly 30 years ago, so some units look shabby. A brand new train called 385 series is due to be introduced in financial year 2026.

(A typical post towns in Japan)

Stations on the western part of Chuo Main Line are mostly smaller than those in the Greater Tokyo Area. A few of them in Nagano Prefecture, Narai for example, are close to post towns in the 17th to 19th centuries. Old wooden buildings have been preserved in some places and become tourist spots.

After leaving Nakatsugawa, the towns by the line look more like suburb residential areas than countryside. From Kozoji to the west, the line gets increasingly busy with long commuter trains. Shinano arrives at Nagoya station two hours after leaving Shiojiri.

It takes about 5 hours in total from Tokyo to Nagoya via Chuo Main Line, about 3.5 hours longer than Tokaido Shinkansen. Nevertheless, only one transfer is necessary, and both Azusa and Shinano run hourly, so it is not difficult to complete the journey.

However, the total cost of Chuo Main Line route is almost the same as Tokaido Shinkansen, as the Chuo route is longer than Shinkansen not just by duration but also actual distance, and requires two separate limited express tickets. Therefore, it should be noted that the Chuo route is just for those wishing to try a different route or those fed up with a boring Shinkansen journey, not for anyone looking for a cheaper alternative.

Railway Operation Act

There are many laws concerning the railway business in Japan, and Act No. 65 of 1900, commonly known as the Railway Operation Act might be interesting. Even though the law remains in force and has partly been amended in 2025, it is written in classical Japanese, making it hard to read for those unfamiliar with law or literature.

The law is short as it only contains around 50 provisions. It regulates basic rules concerning the operation of train services. For example, fares as well as terms and conditions must be published in advance (Article 3), and train operators may refuse to transport gunpowder and other explosive materials (Article 5). Those who board a train without a valid ticket may be fined up to 20,000 yen (Article 29), and those who asked for a donation, sold or distributed something or made a speech without permission may face a fine of no more than 10,000 yen (Article 35).

However, there are a few questionable provisions that might no longer fit for purpose. Here are three examples chosen by the author.

The "pushers" and the law

Trains in the Greater Tokyo Area are so crowded in the morning that it is common to see station staff pushing passengers onto an overcrowded train. However, Article 26 of the law stipulates that "Any railway staff member who forcibly let passengers onto an overloaded train shall be punished by a fine of up to 20,000 yen". Do the station staff in the Greater Tokyo Area violate the law every morning?

The answer is no. Railway companies and the authorities have interpreted the law that it does not prohibit passengers from voluntarily boarding an overcrowded train, and the staff are regarded as "merely" assisting them. No railway employees have been charged with the violation of Article 26 for decades, indicating that this provision is no longer effectively enforced.

COVID-19 and trains

Article 4 paragraph 1 of the law stipulates that "Any patient with an infectious disease may not board a train except in accordance with rules prescribed by the Minister of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism. According to Article 41 of the law, anyone who violated Article 4 or concealed the disease shall be punished by a fine of up to 20,000 yen, and fares already paid will not be refunded.

Thus, any COVID-19 patient who knowingly boarded a train technically violated the law, but there has been no report of such incidents. To be exact, there were in fact a few people arrested on a train or at a station whilst having infected with COVID, but they were charged with severer offences such as Forcible Obstruction of Business (Article 234 of the Penal Code). For example, Yomiuri Shimbun reported in January 2022 that a 20-year-old man was arrested after threatening other passengers on a Tokaido Line train with COVID, causing a 15-minute delay.

Use of firearms

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According to Article 39 of the law, anyone who discharged a gun shall be punished by a fine of up to 20,000 yen. Needless to say, another law regulates the case and thus the Railway Operation Act is almost never used. Act for Controlling the Possession of Firearms or Swords and Other Such Weapons strictly regulates the use of firearms, and Article 3-13 stipulates that unless certain conditions are met, nobody is allowed to discharge a gun at public spaces including roads, parks, stations, theatres, department stores as well as trains and buses. Article 31 provides anyone who violated Article 3-13 shall be punished by imprisonment of more than three years or even life imprisonment, even if no damage to life or property is caused.

Before 1958, Article 39 of the Railway Operation Act did play an important role, but after the Act for Controlling the Possession of Firearms or Swords and Other Such Weapons was promulgated, the Railway Operational Act might no longer be needed in this context.

The Railway Operation Act is an old law, so it is no wonder why many of its provisions now sound outdated. When it comes to serious offences, other laws are likely to be applied with even harsher penalties. Nevertheless, the Railway Operation Act is still valid today, and thus all railway users must comply with the law.

Closing the blog

I have decided to terminate this blog.

Two years ago, I considered closing the blog due to very low number of visitors. Fortunately, the trend has changed, as the annual "page views" exceeded 31,000, which was 3.2 times higher than back in 2023. While these figures do not mean how many people have actually visited the blog, and I am fully aware that they are still low, they encouraged me to post articles regularly. I have also received quite a few heartwarming messages, mainly via Mastodon, for which I am truly grateful.

However, it has become increasingly difficult to keep the blog running since last year. Google has been refusing to index Blogger pages, presumably due to technical issues. It has been widely reported that Blogger's mobile templates cause redirect errors in which Google effectively omits pages from the search results, and this blog is no exception. Most articles of this blog used to be indexed by Google, but they have disappeared. Despite nearly a year having passed since the problem emerged, there is no sign of improvement. I did my best to solve the issue with my extremely limited knowledge, but the blog still remains invisible on Google. I feel powerless against it, and although other search engines like Bing still covers this blog, I am gradually losing interest in keeping it active.

In addition, I have less time to do my hobbies than before, less time to take railway photos and less time to draft an article. Since I will soon move on to a new workplace, where far more tasks are expected, it will undoubtedly be harder to maintain the blog, or even to maintain interest in the railway itself.

For these reasons, I have concluded that it will no longer be able to maintain this blog. New articles will be uploaded on the second and fourth Saturdays each month until the end of this year. The provisional date for the final article is 27th December 2025, and the blog will remain open until the end of the financial year 2025 (i.e. 31st March 2026).

The Red List of Trains in Japan is not affected by this decision.

I regret having to make this decision, and I sincerely appreciate your understanding.

More Hitachi Trains

Earlier this month, I visited the United Kingdom for the first time since the COVID-19 pandemic. As soon as I arrived at King's Cross on day 2, I found a new Hitachi train that was not in service yet when I lived in London six years ago. This is Hull Trains Class 802 Paragon, which entered service ten weeks after I left the UK in 2019. This dark blue livery and pink doors with black front end is a combination of colours that would never be seen in Japan.

On the following day, I could see Class 807 Evero, another Hitachi train type used by Avanti West Coast. The first unit entered into service in October 2024, less than a year ago. As the newest high-speed trains on the West Coast Main Line, the Class 802 is mainly used for services between Euston and Birmingham New Street, Blackpool North, Liverpool Lime Street or Manchester Piccadilly, but not as far as Scotland.

Avanti West Coast has painted its rolling stock dark-green, black and white, and partly red. They are another combination of colours that is hardly found on any Japanese train network, so it looked fresh to me.

When I lived in London six years ago, there were only three Hitachi high-speed trains on the National Rail network: Class 395 Javelin (Southeastern), Class 800 or 802 Intercity Express Train (Great Western Railway) and Class 800 Azuma (London North Eastern Railway). Six years on, more train operators introduced various Hitachi A-train units and use them across England as well as part of Wales and Scotland. While most of them were built not in Japan but in Newton Aycliffe, those Hitachi trains are arguably similar to limited express trains in Japan, and thus the Japanese people must now feel more comfortable in the UK than before – including myself.

No blog update on 13th September 2025

This blog is usually updated every other week (the second and fourth Saturdays each month), but there will be no new article on 13th September, as I will be extremely busy with a ten-day business trip. Thank you for your patience and understanding.

"Local" that was faster than "Rapid"

Train companies in Japan provide various types of service, ranging from cheap slow trains to expensive but fast trains. Generally speaking, Futsu (普通, meaning "standard" "normal" or "ordinary", often referred to as "Local" in English) is the slowest one amongst all, calling at all stations. Kaisoku, (快速, often referred to as "Rapid" in English), is usually a semi-fast service that does not charge extra fares. However, there were a few Local trains that called at fewer stations than Rapid trains.

Chuo Main Line

Chuo Main Line in Tokyo is one of the busiest commuter railways in the country. Orange commuter trains run mainly between Tokyo and Takao, operating as rapid or special rapid. In addition, yellow commuter trains run between Ochanomizu and Mitaka, which are labelled Kakueki Teisha (各駅停車, meaning "stopping at all stations", also often referred to as "Local" in English). The line from Takao to the west is mostly served by shorter suburban trains, and services there are called Futsu (already confusing).

Until the last day of November 1993, there were a few Futsu services to and from Shinjuku, provided by blue and white suburban trains. Despite being called Futsu (Local), they stopped at fewer stations than rapid services or even special rapid services. Service patterns of orange commuter trains were the same as those of today, but the Futsu trains stopped only at Mitaka, Tachikawa, Hachioji and Takao. The trains did not even stop at Mitaka before 1986.

The table below shows Chuo Line service patterns in 1993 (weekdays). Rapid services called at all stations on the list.

	Special Rapid	Futsu
Shinjuku	✓	✓
Koenji
Asagaya
Ogikubo
Nishi-Ogikubo
Kichijoji
Mitaka	✓	✓
Musashi-Sakai
Higashi-Koganei
Musashi-Koganei
Kokubunji	✓
Nishi-Kokubunji
Kunitachi
Tachikawa	✓	✓
Hino	✓
Toyoda	✓
Hachioji	✓	✓
Nishi-Hachioji	✓
Takao	✓	✓

Due to an increased demand for commuter trains and congestion, the Futsu trains between Shinjuku and Takao were replaced with more frequent Chuo Tokkai special rapid services on 1 December 1993.

Joban Line

In addition to Kakueki Teisha (Local, all-stations) services between Ayase and Toride, Futsu services that were faster than rapid services had also existed on Joban Line until March 2004. The rapid services call at Nippori, Mikawashima, Minami-Senju, Kita-Senju, Matsudo, Kashiwa, Abiko, Tennodai and Toride. Meanwhile, Futsu services did not stop at Mikawashima and Minami-Senju during rush hours. The Futsu services called at even fewer stations before 1988, and some of them overtook rapid trains. They were extremely confusing especially for those who were not familiar with the line.

Since March 2004, all Futsu services stop at Mikawashima and Minami-Senju stations. As both the Futsu and rapid have become effectively the same, JR East incorporated the Futsu to rapid services in October 2004.

Why were there such confusing Local trains?

In both cases, Futsu trains were faster than rapid trains. To understand these tricky cases, it is essential to understand subtle and confusing differences between Japanese terms.

Traditionally, Futsu in the Greater Tokyo Aera was classified into ressha (列車), while rapid and Kakueki Teisha were classified into densha (電車). Generally speaking, both ressha (列車) and densha (電車) mean "train", but to be specific, densha means "electric train" for short-distance services with many stops. In other words, densha is just one form of ressha. Other types of ressha include, for example, diesel trains, limited express trains and freight trains. Thus, Futsu has been classified into a different category to rapid or Kakueki Teisha.

Historically, ressha usually meant coach trains hauled by locomotives. Most such trains were hauled by steam locomotives before the Second World War, which were heavy with poor acceleration and braking, and thus unsuited for services in urban areas which require frequent acceleration and deacceleration. Electric multiple units (densha), which were lighter and had far better acceleration and swift braking, became common in Tokyo by the 1930s, but they were costly and not reliable enough for long-distance services. Hence, electric trains were mostly used for short-distance services (i.e. commuter railways) with many stops, while loco-hauled trains were used for middle to long-distance services with fewer stops.

Japanese National Railways introduced electric multiple units to long-distance services in the early-1950s and gradually replaced locomotives and coaches, but the distinction of ressha and densha remained unchanged. It is also worth noting that long-distance Futsu services remained until the 1980s. For example, there were a few local (Futsu) services running between Ueno and Sendai via Mito until 1982.

Even after the privatisation of JNR, the remnant of the old days existed for nearly 20 years. This is why there were Futsu local services with fewer stops than rapid or even special rapid services on Chuo and Joban Lines. This is a good example of how historical legacies affected Japanese railways, though they have mostly disappeared today.

Trains with no air-conditioning

Japan is a humid country. Most part of country belongs to subtropical climate, and the highest temperature is usually observed in July or August. It is getting hotter than ever due to the global warming, and it is now not uncommon to see the mercury hitting more than 35 degrees Celsius. Hokkaido, the northern island known for a significant amount of snow fall, is no exception.

Therefore, air-conditioning has been vital for the most people here in Japan. Railway companies have invested in air-conditioned trains from the 1960s, and most "non-air-conditioned" trains in urban areas were withdrawn by the mid-1990s. However, there are a few exceptions as listed below.

(*Note that the list does not include preserved trains, old trams, tourist attractions and some funiculars.)

JR Hokkaido

Old diesel trains in Hokkaido are mostly without the air-conditioning. Since maximum temperatures in summer were used to be lower than 30 degrees Celsius, Japanese National Railways concluded that no such costly equipment was necessary. However, the mercury often hits 35 degrees or even higher these days, so AC is now essential even in this northern island. Nevertheless, there are a few diesel trains without one, namely KiHa 40 series, KiHa 54 series and some KiHa 150 series. They are used for regional services in Tomakomai, Asahikawa and Kushiro areas. Those who definitely wish to avoid such trains should purchase an extra ticket and get on a limited express service.

Yamaman

Yamaman is a real estate developer that has developed a town of Yukarigaoka in Sakura city (Chiba Prefecture) since 1971. Though located far from Tokyo, the town has developed successfully and continues to attract younger generations.

The company owns a small automated guideway transit system called Yukarigaoka Line in the town. Yamaman 1000 series, the only rolling stock of the line, has no air-conditioning. The company provides disposable wet towels and paper fans on the train, but they are clearly not enough during the blistering heat and high humidity. While Yukarigaoka is not a place for sightseeing, those visiting the town should acknowledge this fact or simply avoid trains and use bus instead.

Hakone Tozan Railway

Hakone Tozan Railway has always been busy, as the railway itself is now a tourist attraction. There are four types of trains, and one of them has no air-conditioning. MoHa 1 and 2, the oldest rolling stock, was introduced in 1950, and three carriages (which are effectively treated as one three-car unit) are still operational today. Hakone had had lower temperatures than Odawara or Yokohama until around ten years ago, but heatwaves have finally reached this mountain. Probably that is why the company has designated the 75-year-old train as a spare unit, and thus it usually stays at a depot instead of carrying passengers in summer.

Sangi Railway

Nagoya area has always been very hot, but surprisingly, there are a few trains without AC. Sangi Railway Hokusei Line is a rural railway in Mie Prefecture with very narrow gauge. Trains are 35-71 years old, and due to their size, engineers gave up installing air-conditioners on some of them.

Just two out of seven units are fully air-conditioned, and three units are partially air-conditioned (the first carriage has no cooler). The other two units are completely without AC. The company therefore posts timetables of "non-air-conditioned" services on X, and advises vulnerable people to avoid them. Given that Kuwana city, where the line starts, have recorded the highest temperature of 40.4 degrees on the first day of August, the timetables are essential for local residents.

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As the recent heatwave is expected to continue for weeks, it is essential to have water and avoid sunshine as much as possible. Those who plan to travel the abovementioned areas should also check their itinerary and consider avoiding such trains.

Farewell, Enkobashicho Tram Stop

On Saturday 2nd August, the Main Line of Hiroshima Electric Railway between Hiroshima Station and Matobacho tram stop will be permanently closed. Instead, a new, shorter route connecting them will open on the following day. As a result, Enkobashicho, the only intermediate tram stop on the current route, will be permanently closed as well.

Enkobashicho is the tram stop adjacent to Hiroshima Station, the de facto central station of the city. It opened in 1912, and it was named after a nearby bridge called Enkobashi. The tram stop has very narrow platforms with no step-free access. There were no platforms until 1974, and they do not look safe even with them today.

Who uses Enkobashicho tram stop, which is less than 200 yards from the central station? Some passengers heading towards the central station alight at Enkobashicho, because services often come to a standstill due to traffic congestion. In that case, it is better to walk two minutes than to wait on a tram for 3-5 minutes. According to the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism, nearly 2,000 people on average used the tram stop daily.

There is not much to see around the tram stop, but three rusted hand pumps on the pavement are striking. According to a small handmade sign, these pumps date back to the early 1940s or even before that, and they supplied water to those burnt by the atomic bomb on the Day 80 years ago. Whilst they are not officially designated as "atomic bomb heritage" by the authorities, Nippon Television concluded that they are genuine historical remains.

The rerouting of the Main Line constitutes the essential part of a redevelopment plan initiated by the city. As the new route is less likely to be affected by traffic jams, and the new Hiroshima Station platforms are larger than the current ones, passengers will be able to access the central station faster. Enkobashicho tram stop will have fulfilled its purpose, and will be demolished later this year for road widening.

Related: The Tram, another stark reminder from the past

The unprecedented disruption on Yamagata Shinkansen

Yamagata Shinkansen has been operating with significantly reduced services for nearly a month due to train faults. The line has been severely disrupted in summer, and it may have a huge negative impact on local economy.

On 17th June, Tohoku Shinkansen was closed for 5.5 hours due to broken down trains. Initially, it was reported that the newest unit of E8 series came to a halt because of fatal technical failure whilst testing, but according to Nikkei, three more units suffered from similar failure on the same day. According to JR East, a power system on each units that converts power for other devices broke down so that a cooling system stopped, and thus the trains could not reactivate. It was later found that the power system was severely damaged or even partly melted. The cause of the troubles remains unknown.

The E8 series entered into service in March 2024, and eleven seven-carriage units have been introduced as of today. Five of them have been taken out of service and are under investigation. JR East timidly reinstated other units to passenger services, but the company has decided to use the units always with 10-car E5 series trains. They are used only for a handful Yamabiko services between Tokyo and Sendai. In other words, the company has not used the E8 series units independently since then.

As a result, there has been a severe shortage of trains. JR East has been using E3 series trains alongside the E8 series, but the E8 series trains have been unable to engage in passenger services between Fukushima and Shinjo, so all Yamagata Shinkansen services are provided by old E3 series trains. However, the number of the E3 series is not sufficient, as the old trains have been gradually replaced with the E8 series. Hence, Nikkei estimated that the daily capacity would decrease by up to 40%.

JR East had no choice but to cancel almost of all direct services between Tokyo and Yamagata or Shinjo. According to the temporary timetables, E3 series trains run between Fukushima and Shinjo, and all passengers to and from Tokyo or Omiya are required to change trains at Fukushima station. As trains have to wait for the transfer, there have been minor delays on some services.

JR East and manufacturers are struggling to figure out the cause. Hence, JR East announced on Wednesday that the service reduction will continue until at least the end of July. Amidst concerns over local economy, Asahi Shimbun reported that the Governor of Yamagata Prefecture urged JR East to carry out all the necessary investigations and resume the services as soon as possible. In response to her request, JR East decided to provide three direct trains to and from Tokyo from Saturday 19th July using the E3 series, but there will be even fewer services between Fukushima and Shinjo due to lack of available trains. At present, it is highly uncertain if all E8 series will be reinstated before Obon holidays in mid-August, one of the busiest seasons in Japan.

Mojiko, Another Important Cultural Property

Mojiko is a station where Kagoshima Main Line begins. It was once vital for the entire island of Kyushu, but trains running between Kyushu and the Main Island (Honshu) have completely been rerouted. Nevertheless, Mojiko still remains as a symbol of the area, and its historic building is highly popular among tourists.

Mojiko is one of two active stations that are designated by the government as an Important Cultural Property (the other one is Tokyo station). Opened in 1891 as Kyushu Railway's Moji station, it had been the most important railway terminal in Kyushu until 1942, when Kanmon Tunnel connecting Shimonoseki and Moji opened. At the same time, Moji station was renamed Mojiko.

The current building was built in 1914, seven years after the nationalisation of Kyushu Railway. There are many things to see, not only the architecture itself but also interior features such as the ticket hall, ticket office and waiting room. The main building is magnificent especially at night when it is illuminated. While most tourists visit the area during the daytime and leave by sunset, it is worth waiting until it gets dark.

According to the statistics, the annual entry and exit in 2023 was approximately 3.5 million, less than 4% of that of Hakata (the busiest station on JR Kyushu network). Mojiko station is mostly empty except during rush hours, so these platforms look disproportionately long. They remind us of the days when millions of passengers and tonnes of goods a year relied on trains and ferries to cross the Kanmon Straits.

Mojiko is a place where old western-style buildings are preserved. It is a small but lovely tourist spot, and it takes only 15 minutes from Kokura by train. Shimonoseki, another city known for such buildings and fugu (blowfish) dishes, is just five minutes away by boat.

Tokyo station, where two prime ministers were assassinated

Tokyo station is arguably the most famous railway hub in Japan, and is effectively the central station of the capital. The iconic red brick building on the west side, known as Marunouchi Side, was built in 1914. While largely destroyed during the Bombing of Tokyo in 1945, the building was reconstructed two years later, and it was restored to the original style in 2012. Today, it is one of just two active railway stations registered as the Important Cultural Property by the Government.

Tokyo station is generally seen as a symbol of the country's positive aspects, such as westernisation, modernisation and prosperity as well as resilience after the Second World War, but it also represents negative historical memories that are often overlooked. This is the place where two incumbent prime ministers were killed.

On 4th November 1921, Takashi Hara was stabbed to death by an 18-year-old pointsman of the Railway Ministry. There is a small plate on the wall, just next to a ticket machine at "Marunouchi South Entrance/Exit", with a tiny hexagon mark next to a small square pattern on the floor, showing the precise position of the incident.

Takashi Hara was the first commoner to become prime minister in Japanese history. He took office in 1918, and it was the first time in history that a member of the House of Representatives became the prime minister. This is why his premiership is sometimes called the dawn of democracy in Japan. It is also worth noting that he was the only Christian prime minister before the Second World War.

During his premiership, he engaged in improving higher education, including establishment or reorganisation of many private universities (e.g. Waseda, Keio and Doshisha) as well as new "higher schools" (different to high schools of today). However, inflation after the First World War remained stubbornly high, and the cost of living crisis led to criticisms of prioritising business leaders rather than citizens, which are said to have triggered the assassination.

The inscription reads:

On 4th November 1921 at 7:20 pm, Prime Minister Takashi Hara was walking towards a ticket gate at Marunouchi South Entrance to visit Kyoto, where a party conference of Seiyukai's Kyoto branch would be held. Then, a young man ran out and grazed a shoulder of Yoshikazu Takahashi (the first stationmaster) and suddenly stabbed Hara in his right chest with a six-inch dagger. Hara collapsed on the spot and received first aid treatment at the stationmaster's office, but he was already dead. The assailant stated that he committed the murder because he was dissatisfied with Hara and his cabinet's high-handed policies, but the true background of the incident remained unclear.

It was the very first assassination of a sitting prime minister in Japan. The assailant was sentenced to life imprisonment but pardoned in 1934. Since his imprisonment was disproportionately short, there have been rumours or even conspiracy theories about possible connection between him and other ultra right-wing activists, but it has not been verified. He died in 1980 at the age of 77.

Another prime minister was killed in less than ten years. On 14th November 1930, Osachi Hamaguchi was shot by a 21-year-old right-wing activist at the station, and died in the following year. There is another plate on the wall and a tile on the floor near a lift to platforms 9 and 10 at the central concourse, though the square symbol does not represent the actual position of the incident (he was actually shot at the platform above).

Osachi Hamaguchi became prime minister in 1929 and known for being dovish and an internationalist both diplomatically and economically. He also pursued austerity and reduction of armament that infuriated many Japanese. The public rage at him peaked when he ratified the Treaty for the Limitation and Reduction of Naval Armament (also known as the London Naval Treaty), which Hamaguchi believed helpful for both budget cut and maintaining good relationship with the United Kingdom and the United States. He was accused by opposition parties and the military of violating Article 11 of the constitution, which prescribed that "The Emperor has the supreme command of the Army and Navy", while he and ministers believed that approval of the Diet and the Privy Council would suffice.

The inscription reads:

On 14th November 1930 at 8:58 am, Prime Minister Osachi Hamaguchi was walking down the platform to the first-class coach of the Limited Express "Tsubame" that would depart at 9 am, en route to Okayama Prefecture to observe a special army manoeuvre. Then, a gunshot rang out, and Hamaguchi collapsed, clutching his abdomen. He received first aid by doctors, and underwent surgery at the Tokyo Imperial University Hospital. His condition initially seemed to improve, but died on 26th August in the following year. It is said that the assailant committed the attack as he opposed Hamaguchi's government, led by Constitutional Democratic Party, which resisted pressure from the military during the ratification of the London Treaty.

After the assassination of Hara, the authorities decided to temporarily close part of a station when a prime minister was about to board or alight from a train, but Hamaguchi asked the security personnel to lift the restriction as he did not want to inconvenience other citizens. It ended up with the tragedy.

This incident had a significant impact on the Japanese politics. This case and the assassination of Tsuyoshi Inukai, another sitting prime minister killed in 1932, were decisive for the premature democracy in the country, consequently replaced with militarism.

These memorials are very subtle and not noticeable, presumably because they are not something the Japanese people or JR East are proud of. Even so, these marks silently remind us of significant moments in history. As the world is deeply divided with disinformation and agitation, they also remind us that the true value of these monuments should never be underestimated.

The Red List of Trains in Japan (Jun-2025 update)

The Red List of Trains in Japan is now up to date! No new article this time, but many existing articles have got the latest figures. Important changes include:

• Rolled back the status of JR East 255 series from EXTINCT to CRITICALLY ENDANGERED, as the company decided to retain one for a while despite its farewell tour being conducted last year
• Changed the status of Isumi Railway 300 and 350 series as the line itself has been "temporarily" closed for years

I stumbled across a master's dissertation from Spain that cited my website. While I am honoured to be seen as such a credible source, I feel a little bit awkward about it. The site was never intended to be academic, so why their supervisor approved the use of an anonymous hobby website?

— Hiroshi Deng Luma (He/him) (@networker-365.bsky.social) June 7, 2025 at 2:33 PM

I also recently discovered that my website has been used for academic purposes. While I am truly grateful for it, I would like to emphasise that this website is just a personal, unofficial one. I always endeavour to provide accurate and up-to-date information as much as possible, but you should always consider very carefully before you cite anything on my website and this blog.

The Tram, another stark reminder from the past

Hiroshima is known for having the most extensive tram network in Japan. Most tourists to here visit the the Peace Memorial Museum and Genbaku Dome (also known as the Atomic Bomb Dome) just like G7 leaders did in 2023. Many people believe that the Dome is the only survivor of the very first nuclear attack in history, but as BBC reported back in 2015, it is not true. This is No. 651 of Hiroshima's tram, one of few vehicles that survived the day.

This is Hiroshima Electric Railway 650 series, a tram type developed in 1942. Five trams were introduced, and all of them were damaged at quarter past eight on 6th August 1945, some of them destroyed. Yet, the company repaired all of them and thus they were all eventually reinstated. All 650 series trams were supposed to be withdrawn by 2006, but the company decided to preserve some of them. Today, three trams are still registered for mainline use, and they are often used as charter trains including school trips for teenagers. In addition, nos. 651 and 652 sometimes run during morning rush hours on weekdays.

No. 651 was about to depart Fukuromachi tram stop towards Senda depot, presumably after being used for a charter train on Saturday afternoon. The grey building on the left is the former Hiroshima Branch of the Bank of Japan, another building that withstood the bomb. Together with modern buildings nearby, they highlight how much the city has developed since then, and how important it is to preserve such heritage to remember that day.

It should be noted that the heritage sites in Hiroshima have been preserved not to emphasise the "atrocities committed by the United States", but rather to serve as a memorial, reminding us that regardless of views on nuclear weapons, they should never be used again under any circumstances. As the 80th anniversary of the end of the Second World War (commonly known outside Japan as the VJ Day) is approaching, and given that the substantial risk of another nuclear attack amidst conflicts including those in Eastern Europe, the Middle East and South Asia, the 650 series trams are not just cute and retro vehicles, but they present us a stark warning.