Tokyo to Sapporo by Rail

Introduction

Sapporo is one of the most important commercial and business hubs in Japan, and popular destinations for tourists. It is approximately 830 km (516 miles) north of Tokyo, and almost everyone travelling between Tokyo and Sapporo choose flights. According to a travel intelligence company OAG, the flight route between Tokyo Haneda and Sapporo New Chitose was the world's second busiest in 2024. Unlike 50 years ago, rail transport is no longer seen as a feasible option.

However, some people still travel by rail, including an insane railway enthusiast like me. I travelled to Sapporo and returned to Tokyo by rail using two routes in Hokkaido. This article is a sort of diary about two train trips. Note that some photos in this article were taken not during this trip but my previous trips.

To Sapporo via the "coastal route"

Train 1: Tokyo to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto

E5 series Shinkansen

The journey started from Tokyo station. When Hokkaido Shinkansen opened in 2016, some bullet train services were extended to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto. Today, the fastest service between Tokyo and Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto takes 3 hours and 57 minutes. It might sound too slow for an 823 km (515 miles) journey, but this is because the trains have to slow down in Seikan Tunnel.

The train I took, Hayabusa 11, was so busy that some people could not make seat reservations and thus had to stand by the doors. About half of the passengers alighted from the train at Sendai, but the train remained busy until Morioka. There were quite a few passengers travelling to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto, but most of them must have boarded at Sendai, Morioka or Shin-Aomori rather than Tokyo or Omiya.

End of the line

Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto is in the middle of nowhere, though a few buildings were built after the station opened. The city centre of Hakodate is more than 16 km (10 miles) away. According to Nippon TV, JR Hokkaido envisages extending the high-speed rail to Sapporo in around 2039, which is more than seven years behind the original schedule mainly due to geological difficulties.

Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto is the longest station name on Shinkansen networks in Japan (when written in alphabet, including hyphens). This awfully long name reflects an absurd controversy: JR Hokkaido built it as the closest station to Hakodate, but it is actually located in nearby Hokuto. Both Hakodate and Hokuto cities insisted that their name should be included, and they eventually made a compromise.

Train 2: Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto to Sapporo

The "coastal route"

The only railway towards the centre of the island is called Hakodate Main Line, which goes on to Onuma, Mori, Yakumo and Oshamambe. There are two routes from Oshamambe to Sapporo: the "coastal route" and the "mountain route". All regular intercity services have used the "coastal route" (via Muroran and Chitose) since 1986, as it is far faster despite being more than 30 km (about 20 miles) longer than the other route.

Technically, the "coastal route" from Oshamambe to Sapporo consists of three lines: Muroran Main Line between Oshamambe and Numanohata, Chitose Line between Numanohata and Shiroishi, and Hakodate Main Line (again) between Shiroishi and Sapporo. The lines between Higashi-Muroran and Sapporo are electrified, but the remaining sections still require diesel trains.

KiHa 261 series

Limited Express Hokuto connects Hakodate and Sapporo using diesel trains. The journey from Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto to Sapporo takes approximately 3 hours and 40 minutes.

Herring and herring roe (kazunoko)

Hokkaido had been well known for Pacific herring fishing, which was once the most important industry in the region. The catch of herring dropped in the mid 1950s due to overfishing and changes in migration patterns, so the herring available in Hokkaido today are mostly imported from other countries, such as the United States and Canada. However, Nikkei BP reported in 2019 that the number of herring is gradually increasing thanks to the conservation programme.

Mt Komagatake (2012)

The Pacific Ocean near Mori station

The sunset in Muroran

Limited Express Hokuto 13 ran by mountains and the Pacific Coast. The railway is not fully doble-tracked, and since other trains hit "small wild animals", my train had to wait for oncoming trains longer than scheduled. As a result, I arrived at Sapporo at 17:43, delayed by 13 minutes.

From Sapporo via the "mountain route"

The "mountain route"

The return journey consisted only of Hakodate Main Line via Otaru and Kutchan, which is commonly known as the "mountain route". Historically, this route was the most important railway connecting Hakodate (and by extension, Honshu) and Sapporo since 1905. However, due to tight curves and steep gradients, all regular long-haul trains have already shifted to the "coastal route", and thus the traditional route between Sapporo and Oshamambe or Hakodate is used only by a few people these days.

Since the "mountain route" is shorter than the "coastal route", Hokkaido Shinkansen is being constructed along the former one.

Train 1: Sapporo to Otaru

731 series

The Line between Sapporo and Otaru has been heavily used both by local residents and tourists. It is one of the busiest commuter railways in the region, and Otaru is highly popular among tourists. To deal with congestion, most services here are provided by commuter trains similar to those in Tokyo or Osaka.

The Sea of Japan near Otaru

The station board and the portrait of Yujiro Ishihara (actor)

As the train approaches Otaru, the Sea of Japan appears on the right side of the train. It is not always beautiful, as it easily gets grey with high waves in winter. Had I visited here in summer, it would have looked far better.

Train 2: Otaru to Kutchan

H100 series

The electrification ends here, and thus diesel trains are in use beyond Otaru. Trains run infrequently, roughly every 1-2 hours. However, most trains here are formed of two coaches, as some trains are crowded by foreign tourists.

Yoichi Distillery (2013)

Cape Shakotan (2013)

Most tourists alight from the train at Yoichi, a town approximately 16 km (10 miles) west of Otaru. Yoichi has many orchards and breweries, and most visitors here head towards the Yoichi Distillery where iconic buildings are still in use. An adjacent town Shakotan is known for magnificent scenery of the Sea of Japan, which is called the Shakotan Blue.

My train became almost empty after leaving Yoichi, and it ran slowly as it climbs mountains. The train suddenly stopped three times due to trespassers (deer), but fortunately none of them were hit by the train.

Train 3: Kutchan to Oshamambe

Kutchan station building, with new Shinkansen station behind

Kutchan is known for ski resorts along with nearby Niseko area, hosting many foreign tourists in winter. The station itself is small, but Hokkaido Shinkansen tracks and station are under construction. According to the Prefectural Government of Hokkaido, the new Shinkansen will connect Sapporo and Kutchan in around 25 minutes.

Niseko, the first National Railways station to have a katakana name

The Line between Kutchan and Oshamambe is the least used part, with just seven services a day (two of them terminate at Rankoshi). A train formed of only one coach (H100 series again) slowly ran with around 20 passengers. As the train goes on to Niseko and Rankoshi, I could see many mountains with ski courses. They were too early to enjoy skiing in mid-November, but some of them might be available today.

Train 4: Oshamambe to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto

Oshamambe station with cranes for Shinkansen construction

Just like in Kutchan, the Shinkansen was under construction in Oshamambe as well. The town of Oshamambe was once an important transport hub, but since long-distance trains have shifted to the "coastal route", and services have been modernised from steam trains to diesel multiple units, the town has declined. The main industries here today are dairy, forestry and fishing.

There is little to tell. I got on Limited Express Hokuto 12 and alighted at Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto. The journey took less than 80 minutes.

Train 5: Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto to Tokyo

Sadly, I failed to grab dinner, as a large group of tourists bought everything in a convenience store. What was worse, an onboard trolley service no longer deals in food, but just drinks, snacks and ice creams. I therefore asked for an ice cream, the essentials during a long trip on Shinkansen.

Trip itinerary

*SHH stands for Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto

Thu 13 Nov

• 11B (Hayabusa 11)
• Tokyo 9:36 ⇒ SHH 13:33
• 13D (Hokuto 13)
• SHH 13:50 ⇒ Sapporo 17:43 (+13)

Mon 17 Nov

• 3831M
• Sapporo 9:34 (+1) ⇒ Otaru 10:13 (+6)
• 1938D
• Otaru 10:57 ⇒ Kutchan 12:17 (+1)
• 2940D
• Kutchan 12:35 ⇒ Oshamambe 14:11
• 12D (Hokuto 12)
• Oshamambe 14:37 ⇒ SHH 15:54 (+2)
• 3034B (Hayabusa 34)
• SHH 16:20 ⇒ Tokyo 20:31 (-1)

Is it worth it?

The short answer is NO for ordinary travellers, as the rail travel between Tokyo and Sapporo is far longer and almost certainly more expensive than air travel. Furthermore, trains in Hokkaido are not as punctual as those in other parts of the country because trains are frequently disrupted by inclement weather (such as heavy snow) and wild animals (notably deer and bears). In fact, I felt it more like being in Britain than Japan during the trip.

Even so, both routes between Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto (or Oshamambe) and Sapporo are scenic, especially in summer. Fortunately, trains there are air-conditioned, so there is little risk of heatstroke inside trains.

The local governments and JR Hokkaido push for permanent closure of the railways and replacement with buses, as I reported in this blog. Since the Hokkaido Shinkansen extension has been deferred, the railway closure is also likely to be deferred, but its future remains bleak. I therefore highly recommend anyone interested in the rail journey plan to do so before it is too late.

The Red List of Trains in Japan (Nov-2025 update)

The Red List of Trains in Japan has been updated, with four new articles as listed below.

• JR East E8 series Shinkansen
• JR Central HC 85 series
• JR Central 315 series
• Tobu 80000 series

In addition, Seibu 8000 series and Fujikyu 8500 series have been added to the list. There are also many other articles that are now up to date.

I hope they are useful!

The railway and the religion (2) - Memorials at Soji-ji Temple

Soji-ji is a temple in Tsurumi (Yokohama city), about 13.5 miles south of Tokyo station. It is one of two head temples of the Soto sect of Zen Buddhism. There are many wooden buildings, but they were mostly built in the 20th century, as the temple relocated from Ishikawa Prefecture in 1911. Even so, Soji-ji is still one of the most important and influential temples in Japan.

This temple is also known for tombs of celebrities, including Yujiro Ishihara (actor, 1934-1987) and Antonio Inoki (a professional wrestler and politician, 1943-2022), but it is not well known that this temple has a connection with railways nearby. There are memorials of two disasters, namely Sakuragicho train fire and Tsurumi rail crash.

At 1:45 pm on 24th April 1951, a commuter train on Tokaido branch line (now Negishi line) hit a loose overhead wire after a maintenance worker accidentally cut off another wire and failed to close the mainline, because he thought it would not obstruct trains. The wire tangled up in a pantograph and caused a short circuit with sparks. The train was made of wood, and thus it was quickly engulfed in fire, but many passengers were unable to evacuate as windows did not open, because the Japanese National Railways staff had locked them to tackle fare evasion. As a result, 106 passengers were killed.

(Some smartphones may fail to view the image correctly)

Soji-ji, the largest temple in the area, held a memorial service two weeks after the tragedy, where the Emperor Hirohito and the Empress Nagako offered flowers. A memorial and a Buddhist statue were erected here by the then stationmaster of Tokyo and the then General Secretary of the National Railway Workers' Union in the following year.

Another, even more devastating disaster took place near the temple on 9th November 1963. At around 9:50 pm, a freight train on Tokaido freight line derailed and collided with two Yokosuka line trains. 161 people were killed, making it the second deadliest train accident after the Second World War.

Since the crash site was very close to Soji-ji, many bodies were brought into the temple. A year later, priests of the temple erected a large memorial, with names of 160 passengers inscribed. The JNR (and later JR East) have conducted a ceremony here on 9th November every year.

Hyakken Roka, a 164-metre long (538-ft long) corridor, is not just an ordinary corridor that divides the precinct into parts. It was a temporary morgue on the day of Tsurumi rail crash (see also 4:38 in the video). A little ceremony is held here every day to remember the victims. Young monks run the corridor with a watering can, and the two lines of water sprinkle are said to represent railway track or incense sticks.

Both Sakuragicho train fire and Tsurumi rail crash, which are amongst the Five Disasters of the Japanese National Railways, happened when Japan was recovering from the War, and thus the railway in Japan was not as safe or reliable as it is today. Whilst most people have already forgotten them, the monuments at Soji-ji remind us of the past tragedies.

(Note that Soji-ji is a place of worship, so any boisterous or disturbing behaviour is not accepted.)

The railway and the religion (1) – Kotoden in Kagawa Prefecture

There is often a connection between a railway and religion. For example, Keikyu, which is now known as an airport rail link between Haneda Airport and Tokyo, was initially built to transport prayers visiting Heiken-ji temple (Kawasaki Daishi). There are a few other railways opened for a similar purpose, and Kotoden might be one of the most interesting examples in Japan, as all of its lines have a strong connection with religion.

Kotoden, officially Takamatsu Kotohira Electric Railroad, is a small private railway company with three lines (Kotohira, Nagao and Shido Lines) in Kagawa Prefecture, western Japan. They are ordinary commuter railways today, but they were once heavily used by worshippers and pilgrims visiting temples and shrines, which most people overlook these days.

Kotohira Line

Kotohira Line is the longest and most used one amongst the three lines, connecting Takamatsu-Chikko (which is close to JR Takamatsu station and the port) and Kotoden-Kotohira. The line is 32.9 km (20.4 miles) long, and a journey on the entire line takes about an hour.

Kotohira is a town known for the largest shrine in the region called Kotohira Shrine (also known as Kompira shrine), which has been one of the most famous and authoritative patrons of maritime transport in the country for more than 400 years. Ferries and boats are not as common today as they used to be, but the shrine still attracts millions of sailors and tourists every year.

Kotohira Electric Railway opened in 1926, and extended to Kotohira in the following year to transport visitors to the shrine. It was one of four railways constructed for the shrine, showing how high the demand was back then. Even after Kotoden was established in 1943 amidst the war, Kotohira Line remained an important railway in the region. However, as the visitors gradually shifted to road transport, Kotoden has concentrated on local residents going to work, school or for shopping rather than tourists coming from other part of the country.

Even so, not a few visitors to the shrine still use the line. Kotohira station is also served by JR Dosan Line, but Kotoden outweighs JR when it comes to a journey between Takamatsu and Kotohira. To put it simply, Kotoden is more convenient and cheaper.

Nagao Line

Nagao Line is a 14.6 km (9 miles) long railway that branches off at Kawaramachi, opened in 1912 by Takamatsu Electric Tramway. The line is mostly in residential area, used by commuters and students during rush hours but quiet at off-peak times.

Nagao Line had been used by pilgrims visiting Nagao-ji temple, one of the 88 temples of the Shikoku Pilgrimage. It was so hard that not a few pilgrims lost their lives in the past, but it gradually became a casual trip as railways and roads were built. Nagao Line was part of it.

The number of pilgrims has declined over decades, but the number of foreign tourists visiting temples is gradually increasing, probably because The New York Times referred to it in 2015.

Shido Line

Shido Line is a 12.5 km (8 miles) long railway connecting Kawaramachi and Kotoden-Shido, opened in 1911 by Tosan Electric Tramway. According to Kotoden's official website, both Nagao and Shido Lines were initially served by small trains for tourists. Shido Line lies close to the sea, attracting both tourists and local residents going on an outing.

Kotoden-Shido is close to Shido-ji, another temple that is part of the Pilgrimage. In addition, two more temples, namely Yakuri-ji and Yashima-ji, are close to Yakuri and Kotoden-Yashima stations on the line. There is even a funicular near Yakuri station, which transports not only pilgrims to the temple but also those going for hiking. There was also another funicular at Yashima, though it was closed 20 years ago.

Yashima is known for an old battlefield. There was Battle of Yashima on 22 March 1185, in which the Minamoto and Taira clans fought against each other (Genpei War). This battle is also well known in Japanese literature (Tale of the Heike), which almost of all Japanese students at secondary school learn.

Not a few Japanese people focus on the battlefield, but Yashima-ji should not be forgotten. While the funicular has already been closed, there is a bus from JR Shido or Kotoden-Shido stations, making it easy to access to the temple.

Kotoden might just be a mundane rural railway with old-fashioned trains at first glance, but given its history and connection with religion, it might look a little more interesting. Note that these temples and the shrine are places of worship, so any boisterous or disturbing behaviour is not accepted.

Chuo Line, another route to Nagoya

Blue: Tokaido Shinkansen　Orange: Chuo Main Line

Nagoya is the fourth largest city in Japan with approximately 2.34 million people. It is 267 km (166 miles) west of Tokyo, but because of topographical reasons, railways and roads connecting the two cities exceed 320 km (200 miles). Most travellers between the two cities rely on Tokaido Shinkansen, the oldest high-speed rail in the world, as it takes just 1.5 hours and trains run every 4-10 minutes at the daytime.

It is often overlooked that there are two more railways that directly connect Tokyo and Nagoya. Tokaido Main Line, which largely parallels the Tokaido Shinkansen, still serves the cities. Whilst most passengers have already shifted to the Shinkansen, Tokaido Main Line is still important for freight trains. In addition, Chuo Main Line also plays role in these cities, though very few people use it to travel between Tokyo and Nagoya. This article focuses on Chuo Main Line, and whether it is worth to choose this route.

Like Tokaido Main Line, Chuo Main Line starts from Tokyo station. Chuo Line is well known in Tokyo for orange and overcrowded commuter trains. Intercity services, Limited Express Azusa and Kaiji, run along with the commuter trains. Azusa is faster and goes farther, as it connects Tokyo or Shinjuku and Matsumoto.

Most Azusa services are provided by E353 series, which might look a little bizarre but quite new and thus clean. Even amidst the labour shortage, an onboard trolley service with foods and drinks is available on most trains.

From ruins of Kofu Castle

After leaving Takao in the western end of Tokyo Metropolis, the train dives into mountains. Major stations on Chuo Main Line include Otsuki (where Fujikyu Railway, which is highly popular amongst foreign tourists visiting Mt Fuji), Kofu (the capital of Yamanashi Prefecture) and Kami-Suwa (which is close to Lake Suwa).

A little vineyard at Shiojiri station platform

There has been no regular direct service between Tokyo and Nagoya since the 1960s, so at least one transfer is required. In most cases, it is necessary to change trains at Shiojiri station in Nagano Prefecture, which is about 2.5 hours from Shinjuku by Azusa. It is one of a few "border stations" where operational border of JR East and JR Central exists. That is why, the line is sometimes divided into Chuo East Line (Tokyo - Shiojiri, JR East) and Chuo West Line (Shiojiri - Nagoya, JR Central).

Shinonoi Line, which goes on to Matsumoto and Nagano, branches off here. Since not just Azusa but also many regional services on Chuo East Line start from or terminate at Matsumoto, some people misunderstand that Matsumoto is part of Chuo Main Line.

There is another limited express train called Shinano, running between Nagano and Nagoya via Matsumoto and Shiojiri. 383 series is used for Shinano, and the rolling stock was first introduced nearly 30 years ago, so some units look shabby. A brand new train called 385 series is due to be introduced in financial year 2026.

(A typical post towns in Japan)

Stations on the western part of Chuo Main Line are mostly smaller than those in the Greater Tokyo Area. A few of them in Nagano Prefecture, Narai for example, are close to post towns in the 17th to 19th centuries. Old wooden buildings have been preserved in some places and become tourist spots.

After leaving Nakatsugawa, the towns by the line look more like suburb residential areas than countryside. From Kozoji to the west, the line gets increasingly busy with long commuter trains. Shinano arrives at Nagoya station two hours after leaving Shiojiri.

It takes about 5 hours in total from Tokyo to Nagoya via Chuo Main Line, about 3.5 hours longer than Tokaido Shinkansen. Nevertheless, only one transfer is necessary, and both Azusa and Shinano run hourly, so it is not difficult to complete the journey.

However, the total cost of Chuo Main Line route is almost the same as Tokaido Shinkansen, as the Chuo route is longer than Shinkansen not just by duration but also actual distance, and requires two separate limited express tickets. Therefore, it should be noted that the Chuo route is just for those wishing to try a different route or those fed up with a boring Shinkansen journey, not for anyone looking for a cheaper alternative.